Dinners at the Farm

They’re being called Dinners at the Farm, but they might just as well be called a community revolution, since these summer meals could change everything about the way the people in our little stretch of Connecticut think about what they eat and whom they eat it with.

From now through early October, there will be ten dinners, each held on a farm, each benefiting a local non-profit organization and each serving only the foods sold at the Lyme Farmers Market – translation: foods from within about a 30-mile radius of dinner.

The series is the brainchild of Chip Dahlke, owner of Ashlawn Farm and host of the Farmers Market; the gifted Jonathan Rapp, chef/owner of River Tavern in Chester, Drew and Claudine McLachlan, who own Feast Gourmet Market in Deep River, and, of course, the farmers.

Friday night, under a sky that was alternately threatening, wet and gorgeous – we had a ray or two of sun, a couple of downpours, a rainbow, black clouds, then stars and a peek-a-boo moon – there was a kick-off dinner for the farmers and winemakers whose products we would be savoring all summer, organizers from the groups that will receive donations from the dinners, and local press. 

We all ate at one very long table and it was magical to look in either direction and see people eating and drinking fresh, beautifully prepared food, laughing, talking and marveling at the setting.

The menu was put together late in the afternoon, only after Jonathan knew what ingredients he’d have in hand, and everything was prepared on River Tavern’s “chuckwagon,” a red 1953 Ford flatbed outfitted with a commercial range, a smoker and some racks and counters. 

The food was both simple and amazing for its goodness, quality and perfect preparation: warm squid (see below), a mixed seafood salad with scallops, lobster, Stonington red shrimp and bass on a bed of pristine greens, a porchetta with roasted tomatoes and a strawberry crostata with whipped cream.  Every bite of food came from a farmer or producer who was seated at the table and we drank wine from local Chamard Vineyards with the winemakers right there.

Everything was served family style and it was lovely to be passing the food among us and serving one another.

There was a lot of table-hopping (if you can call jumping up to talk to people who are all at the same table table-hopping) and even truck-hopping – yes, that’s Jacques Pepin up there with Jonathan, who’s on the right.

In fact, Jacques will be cooking at one of the summer dinners and Jonathan asked me if I’d do desserts for a couple of them.  Yes, yes, of course, I said “yes!”

It was an inspired evening and I left wondering if such evenings would be possible at Farmers Markets around the country.  The effort is huge and it’s not every chef who wants to cook for a crowd when he doesn’t have a clue about what will turn up in the larder, but the rewards for a community are tremendous.

For me, it was extraordinary to be able to share the food of our region with the people who grow and produce it.  It was another lesson in the power of food and one I wish everyone could have. 

Can we start a movement?  Is there already a movement? 

For a list of the organizations that will benefit from Dinners at the Farm as well as dates and locations, click here. 

Comments

[Michelle Parr Paulson]

Yes Katrina, I represent Dinners at the Farm and Outstanding in the Field is outstanding and is a California outfit that now tours. Dinners at the Farm helps bring this convivial, local farm promoting experience to New England. As Jonathan Rapp and Drew McLachlan, chefs for Dinners at the Farm, say, that without farms there's no farmers and without farmers there's no great food! Preserving our country's land and promoting local farming is vital and more farm dinners like this will only help. And thank you Dorie for being so enthusiastic about our event and helping to pass the word about fresh and local!

[Katrina]

Folks should also check out Outstanding in the Field. They have been doing this around the country for 7-8 years. I just went to one last week and it was truly fantastic.
http://www.outstandinginthefield.com/

[Laura at Blame It on Paris]

This looks like so much fun! I would love to do something like that around here.

[Ulla]

This looks like so much fun! Thanks for the post, I am going to inquire about something like this around were my parents have a farm!

[Heather Solomon]

Dorie,
How wonderful an evening it truly was! And you're so right..."community revolution" is a perfect description. So glad that we could all be there to share in such a memorable event. All the best, Heather Solomon

[Laura]

You're very lucky, Dorie! It makes me wonder if there's anything like that in the Northampton area where I go to school.

In Phoenix, we don't have quite the same thing (to my knowledge), although we do have a few good farm-cooperation food events.

It makes me jealous, however, to hear you talking about your farmer's market! This is sort of our off-season for farmer's markets here. It's too hot! I suppose I shouldn't complain, though, considering that we still have nice produce in November and February.

[Dorie]

Ad, I'm happy to hear that you have a farm-to-table seasonal restaurant and I wouldn't be surprised if there are lots, lots more speckling the country -- I'd love to know about them.

And Rosa, yes! Yes you should see if you can introduce the concept in Nice. Your market is so spectacular! I can't even imagine how wonderful a communal dinner would be with food from your producers in that gorgeous setting!

I'm leaving for France today, so I won't get to the July dinners, but I'll report back on the August events, which should be lush because that's when the produce is at its most bountiful in our late-blooming area.

[RuthWells]

Oooh, how magnificant! Let me know if you need a gofer for your baking night/s -- what an amazing experience!

[Rosa]

What a lovely idea, Dorie. Maybe I can try to introduce this in Nice!

[brilynn]

That sounds absolutely fantastic, what an inspiring idea!

[Ad]

It's turning into a movement. Even my little hamlet in Upstate New York has a farm-to-table seasonal restaurant opening up at the end of June. It's called Fable (http://www.stoneandthistlefarm.com/fable.htm)

I doubt that we'll have Jacques Pepin turning up -- but it still should be tasty.

[elarael]

Wow. Amaaazing. What a perfect communal-summer-fun thing to do, esp. as a benefit. Lovely.

[The TriniGourmet]

ooo wish i could be sitting there :)