La Ferrandaise: Rare Beef and Rarer Ice Cream

Last night, having just gotten to Paris and surviving the transit strike and the news that the money we'd wired to our bank hadn't arrived, we went to meet a friend for dinner at La Ferrandaise, a bistro named for a cow (see Bossie above) and decorated with nothing but pictures of cows (see Bossie above).  The first time I went to La Ferrandaise, located just across from the Luxembourg Gardens, I thought both the name and the bovine decor were a little odd; now, won over by the food, I find them endearing.

Ferrandaise cows were abundant in the Auvergne at the turn of the last century, went almost extinct and have been carefully brought back over the past 30 years.  As the restaurant's menu says, "La Ferrandaise is rare in France, unique in Paris," since the only place you can get it is at this eponymous bistro.

You'd think that a restaurant named for a cow would be the equivalent of an American steakhouse or would certainly offer a menu bullish on beef, but you'd be wrong: usually only a maximum of three dishes on the fixed-price menu (32 euros for three courses) are ever beef, actually mik-fed veal.  Not surprisingly, I always order one of them. 

Last night, there was calves liver with amazing mashed potatoes (I know because that's what my husband had and I kept reaching over to swipe them), blanquette de veau (which the man at the neighboring table had and which caused him to sigh loudly and repeatedly) and perfectly roasted veal with shallot-jus and a more than credible risotto (which is what I had and which, I'm afraid, I, too, may have sighed over too often and too audibly).

You might also think that in a restaurant where the dishes are firmly rooted in tradition, the desserts would run to the beloved but expected, and this time you'd be almost right.  Like the savory dishes, the desserts are variations on the classics.  Just as you'd hope there would be, there was a tart Tatin, but it was made with quince and apples, and there was a moelleux chocolat, a plain chocolate cake, but it was cut into slender bars and served with gentian ice cream.  (Never having had the herb gentian in anything but a digestive, I wasn't sure what to expect and now, having had it, I can't describe it.  It was milder than I'd anticipated and, just when I thought I might have caught the elusive flavor, the little scoop was finished.)  And there was a wine-poached pear, but its playmate was unusual: licorice ice cream - the component that clenched my decision!

I think the ice cream was made by melting Zan, teensy hard licorice candies that are bought in thin, scored plaques.  The flavor of the ice cream was strong - licorice doesn't ever really fade into the background -  but it managed to be a good team player paired with the pear and a couple of speculoos (spice) cookies.  Of course, I want to try making this at home - and I will.

It was great to discover a new flavor combination just a few hours after hitting town.  I'm taking it as a sign that there'll be lots more surprises in the coming weeks.  I'll keep you posted.

Comments

[Victoria]

For some reason I missed this post. This is the recipe I use for licorice ice cream. It's buff colored and very soft. Elusive and delicious.

http://vicsrecipes.blogspot.com/2007/06/l-ice-cream.html

[Lyle]

Thank you for sharing this wonderful find. Now I have a good reason to go to Paris.

Licorice ice cream has long been a favorite of mine since. There is a wonderful ice cream shop in Santa Cruz, CA on the main route out of town called Marianne's Ice Cream that has had licorice ice cream on their menu for well over 30 years. I first tried it in a sundae with butterscotch syrup which gave it the amazing look and consistency of axel grease, something every 9-yr old boy would revel in, no?

[Dorie]

Casey, there's nothing I like more than eating in Paris and if I can share it, then I'm that much happier. Thank you so much for coming along on this adventure with me.

Maria, it's odd, I've had licorice ice cream before, but mostly in Paris. I think that Johnny Iuzzini, the pastry chef at Jean-Georges in New York City, once made a licorice ice cream. I know he made a licorice sauce and I think he made it by melting Zan candies. I just bought a sachet of Zan, so I can start playing.

Liska, how nice to get a greeting from Poland! Yes, the kitchen in the picture is mine -- it's my kitchen in New York City. What you can't quite tell from the picture is how narrow it is: I can stand in the middle of the floor, stretch out my arms and touch both walls!

Larry, I wonder if you couldn't get gentian at an herborist or botanicals store. Like you, I don't think I've ever seen it -- but then I've never looked for it! Your idea of making an infusion sounds like a really good one. What form/type of licorice do you use to make your infusion? Are you using licorice root powder? As for the veal, it was simply roasted. The meat was so tender and flavorful that it was lovely to have it in a completely uncomplicated preparation.

Vida, 7 cents for a scoop of anything seems like a bargain. And how great that it could buy something as yummy as licorice ice cream!

[Vida]

Hi Dorie, licorice ice cream was my favourite as a child growing up in Australia. I would buy a single cone for 7 cents and a double was 14 cents, I think it is obvious how LONG ago that was... Vida x x x

[Larry L]

Dorrie,
When you return perhaps you can find a source for gentian in the US so I can experiement with it (I will also look for it). What an interesting concept.
I have made infusions with licorice and usually try to make a concentrate first and then use it sparingly for a recipe. There is better flavor control that way.
Please describe the recipe for the veal.
Thanks for the blog
Larry

[Liska]

Dorie, is it your kitchen pictured above? If yes - it's gorgeous.
Regards from Poland:)

[Maria]

Very interesting ice cream. I have never heard of that one before. I am glad you got to try it!

[Casey]

Oh, bliss. Dorie is in Paris and eating for those of us who wish we were there too.