Rose Fever - Paris's Got It

It has to have been about 10 years ago that Pierre Herme created the Ispahan, a dessert composed of the now iconic trinity: rose, litchi and raspberry.  His first Ispahan was two rose-flavored macarons sandwiching a rose cream studded with fresh litchis and raspberries, the whole topped with a fresh red rose petal.  Since that time, not only has just about every pastry chef in Paris created something rose flavored, Pierre himself has created at least a dozen desserts, jams and pate-a-fruit (fruit jellies) using the combination. 

I find Pierre's fascination with the flavors remarkable and love how he never seems to tire of working with the threesome.  Quite the opposite, creating with this trio seems to energize him and this energy has brought us the newest family member: the above Gateau Saint-Honore, version Ispahan.

The Gateau Saint-Honore is a completely Parisian creation, having made its debut in 1846 in a pastry shop on the rue Saint Honore (how fitting that Saint-Honore is the patron saint of pastry chefs) owned by Chiboust, who gave his name to the cream filling, a pastry cream lightened with meringue and stabilized with a little gelatin.  The cake is a luscious but complicated affair.  From the bottom up, you've got: a puff pastry base; a ring of caramelized pate-a-choux (cream puff dough); a few caramel-crowned cream puffs (which are filled with either chiboust or whipped cream); a chiboust filling; whipped cream swirled like a prince's turban.  In Pierre's version, the cream is rose-flavored (of course), there are raspberries and litchis, and the caramel is a sexy, iridescent pink color.  And yes, it's fabulously delicious.

Pierre has taken to devoting weeks at a time to what he calls his "fetishes," and March was Fetish Ispahan, a fetish all of Paris seems to share.  So the last night I was in Paris, I went on a little Ispahan spree and bought six little treats to serve to friends after dinner.

The Gateau Saint-Honore is in the center and right above it you've got the Surprise, a crisp but fragile meringue confection wrapped up like a bon-bon for a good child.  Going clockwise, there's the Ispahan Cheesecake, the Ispahan Tart, with little squares of litchi gelee (sooooooo good) and the classic Ispahan. 

Talk about la vie en rose ...

Comments

[Mary Ann]

I just wanted to thank you for writing such a wonderful cookbook. I have had it for awhile but thought that the recipes might be too difficult for an ordinary person like me. I joined Tuesdays with Dorie and I love it! Your recipes are so easy to follow and make me feel like I can bake anything because they always turn out great! Thank you for inspiring me! I made the lots-of ways banana cake and it was so good! Thanks again.

[Vanessa]

I was just at the PH store on Bonaparte last week. We absolutely adored the Ispahan macarons. I also had a fabulous dessert at Au Pied de Cochon that was called La Vie en Rose...it was rose and raspberry sorbet, strawberries, and a rose gelee...it was heaven. Oh how I love Paris!

[Tamami]

Oh how I wish I was in Paris to be able to buy PH's creations...

[tartelette]

Ehehehe!! One of the first Daring Bakers challenge was the Gateau Saint Honore, one of my favorites, with the Opera..now an Ispahan Opera sounds like a brilliant idea! I love PH all chocolate Saint Honore. It took me some time to get on the whole rose falvor bandwagon but now I am a fan! My dream come true though is to visit PH himself with you by my side :) One can dream right?!

[Eileen]

What a lovely composition of desserts!

[Ben]

Those desserts look awesome. I am part of the Daring Bakers group and I wanted to personally thank you for the Perfect Party Cake recipe. I played with it a little and the result was really good. Now I need to get your book to try more of your delicious recipes.

Cheers!

[Kelly-Jane]

If I was presented with a plate like that I have a huge smile on my face! It looks devine!!

[Maria]

These desserts are gorgeous! Your friends got the royal treatment for sure!!

[Natalie]

So beautiful, and they sound divine.

[RuthWells]

Stunning.

Our long-delayed family trip to Paris is now firmly booked for fall, and I can't wait...... I must start combing your blog for must-visit pastry destinations!