Mortar and Pestle: What Took Me So Long?

You know how mothers are always telling their kids to follow their advice so that they (the kids) don't have make their (the mothers') mistakes?  Well, I feel a little like a mother now telling you to add a mortar and pestle to your batterie de cuisine sooner in your cooking life than later.

It's not that I didn't have a mortar and pestle before -- I did.  It was just the wrong one.  I had a small green marble duo that looked like it came from ye olde apothecary.  As pretty as it was, that's how ineffective it was.  It just wasn't big enough to do anything that really needed doing and, when I gave it a job that fit its petiteness, it couldn't do that either because it was so slick that stuff would just slide around no matter how fiercely I pounded. 

At last, after so many years in the kitchen, I found a proper mortar and pestle and instantly became a mortar-and-pestle evangelist.  I've also become someone who uses her food processor a lot less.

See the mint leaves in the mortar?  Three minutes after I took the picture, they were pesto!  There's a reason the tool has been around for centuries: it works -- quickly.  And it's fun to use.  And it's easy to clean.  And it's beautiful.  In the few days I've had it, I've made guacamole, an herb paste for a roasted chicken, a garlic vinaigrette and a red pepper dip.  And, I bought another one for Connecticut.  Can you tell I'm hooked?

This particular mortar and pestle comes from Thailand and is made from one piece of rough (the better to grind) granite.  It comes in three sizes: 1 1/2 cups, 2 cups and 3+ cups.  I bought the 3+ and I think, if you get a mortar and pestle, you should go jumbo, too.  You can use it to pound and grind teensy quantities, but when you've got a bunch of basil, a fistful of nuts, or a few heads of garlic, you'll be happy to have the room to move around. 

In true motherly fashion, I think that the first time you pound your way to pesto, you'll thank me.

Comments

[Eunice]

Ooh yessss! I agree wholeheartedly. I got your link from Kim @ ScrumptiousPhotography and I'm so glad to find others out there doing the same thing! I grind biscuit crumbs for cheesecake with it, as blogged a few days back ;)

mortar and pestle all the way! (i didnt even know what they were called. we call it tumbuk here ;))

[Rebecca]

Wonderful post! We bought a 'jumbo' mortar and pestle on our last trip to Argentina. It came from a flea market, and is big and old and grand-I can just feel the previous cook's history when I use it. It IS the ideal tool!

[Fran]

Where do you store it? That's what's been holding me back.

[Julie]

I love my mortar and pestle, too, but it is a small one and your post makes me think I should invest in the jumbo size.

On another matter, I had to tell you about a new family tradition that launched along with the publication of your Baking book. As each family member's birthday approaches, the lucky child (or husband) is handed my copy of your book. The mission is to choose from among all the delectable desserts inside, a birthday cake, or tart, or pie, or other treat. As the family baker, I then get to work! And the birthday boy or girl gets at least one gift that makes everybody smile.

[margaret]

I bought a similar set from a local asian supermarket here in San Francisco - a bit cheaper than on Amazon - about $24 for the large size (compared with $41 on amazon).

[Sebastian]

I love my mortar and pestle, might just have to get a bigger one. Love your blog and cookbooks. Made your Chocolate Armagnac Cake today (substituted almond flour and cognac), and it was superb! Pictures are on my blog http://sebastiancooks.typepad.com/sebastian_cooks.

[Tammy]

I, too, am a fan of my giant Thai mortar and pestle. I'm going to rue the day I drop it on my big toe, though.

[paula]

I have the marble mortar and pestle and as usual, Dorie is on target. It does not really work well and the handle has broken in half...so I will order this wonderful granite one.
Also, her ice cream recipes in Baking from My Home to Yours are the best....

[Tamami]

Your post makes me wantt to get one now!
Another kitchen equipment you'd definately love is a Japanese "suribachi". (check out google images). it's a ceramic bowl with ridges to grind against, & you use it like mortar and pestle. It's brilliant!

[Phoebe]

Ooh, I have that exact one! I love it so much. My only issue with it is that if I only need to grind a small amount, say 1 teaspoon of cumin seeds, I have a hard time getting the ground spices out--it's hard to pick it up with one hand so that you can scrape with the other!

[Paul.]

I'm so happy to read this post, having been a M&P fan for more years than are polite to count. I remember back in the day when I was selling cookware, trying to "suggest" M&P's instead of the latest worthless unitaskers. More often than not, I got a withering stare for my efforts. M&P's were just too old skool (if that phrase had been around). Now I feel vindicated; thank you!

If I may add: as Dorie said, clean-up's a breeze (and a workout, with the lifting) in the sink but sometimes, when I just want to make sure it's pristine, I grind a handful of white rice in mine as well to absorb any lingering flavour oils.

[Alan]

I learn so much from these posts, thanks so much for sharing all your knowledge. I was hoping you had recipe/s for the pesto, vinaigrette, herb paste & guac

[jasmine]

I'm a big fan of mortars and pestles and have been using them since I was little(r). Great stress release and thinking time...

I have a colleague who heard me talk about mine, and she said in a snooty voice "Oh, I don't *do* these new gadgets. I prefer my (brand name) food processor." I responded with "Yes, I suppose when contrasted against a flint rock a mortar and pestle is a "new" gadget..." OOH the glare I got. :)

j

[Anna C. S.]

Mortar and pestle! I've always wanted to use one... maybe I'll start a collection!

I love doing things with my hands instead of using machinery. I'll have to get one of these.

[RecipeGirl]

I have one of those mini mortar/pestle contraptions as you mentioned. It works, but I'd sure love to make pesto and guacamole in it! I'm definitely going to look into getting a larger model.

[Maria]

I always make my pesto in the food processor. I will have to give the mortar and pestle a try. Summer is coming up and I always buy big bunches of basil at the market for pesto...I can't wait!!

[dorie]

Eileen -- I got my mortar and pestle thru amazon.com (if you click on the hot-linked words "mortar and pestle" on the post, you'll see the one I bought). I would think that you could also find a selection at good kitchenware stores like Sur la Table and Williams-Sonoma.

[Eileen]

I've also been looking for the perfect mortar & pestle, but haven't located it yet. Any suggestions on where to search??

[dorie]

It's so nice to be in the mortar-and-pestle club with such good cooks.

Casey, I think you'll be happy with a larger mortar. In addition to being more efficient, it feels really good to be working with a heavy pestle and to have room to really grind and blend ingredients.

Sam, I can't imagine what made you a mortar-and-pestle collector in your teens, but weren't you smart? So much more practical than Barbie dolls :) And so great that you've kept a piece of the collection and still use it.

Dana, that's a perfect sum-up of the benefits of using a mortar and pestle -- thank you.

Emily, it sounds like you give your mortar and pestle a work-out regularly. I'm hoping to follow your lead.

Rosa, we're having twin experiences -- just an ocean apart.

Meg, I just wash mine in the sink - the only problem is lifting it up and turning it over to dry on the rack. The mortar and pestle were inexpensive compared to cost of the gym sessions I'll need to build up mortar-lifting muscles:)

[Meg]

But Mom, I mean Dorie, how should I clean mine after I've made that delicious pesto?

[Rosa]

Just like you, I also had (I still have it) a small marble mortar & pestle, but wasn't satisfied by it as it was too small and didn't grind efficiently enough... So, I bought a huge Thai granite mortar & pestle. The difference is like day and night. Now, I can make pesto and grind my spices in a matter of minutes without a hassle! I love it!

Cheers,

Rosa

[emily]

I love my mortar and pestle too, I'm so glad that you have joined its legion of fans. You are right about those prissy little versions, ok for some very small jobs but no good when it comes to pesto/curry pastes etc. same goes for smooth ones- they need to be suitably rustic to properly mash up the ingredients. Mine weighs a tonne and isn't pretty to look at but boy does it do the job.

[Dana McCauley]

Brilliant! You're using less electricity, cutting down on noise pollution and left with less clean up. Talk about a triple incentive to find my mortar and pestle. Thanks for this reminder.

[sam]

For some reason unbeknown to me still I started 'collecting' mortal & pestles as a teen. That was 25 years ago. These days I only now keep one in my kitchen - as it happens it's both my favourite-looking one and also the one that works the best.

[Casey]

I too find I'm using my mortar and pestle for a lot of things that used to go in my food processor. I have the medium size, but you've persuaded me to go bigger.