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The Paris Ten: Must-Tastes
Earlier this year, I was asked to come up with a list of the 10 iconic foods of Paris, the tastes a visitor, perhaps a first-timer, shouldn't miss in the city, and it turned out to be a tougher assignment than I'd imagined. Being a Paris part-timer for over a decade, I've written dozens of lists, but when I looked at the current ones, there wasn't much on them I could use. The lists I make include my favorite bistros and wine bars, food shops, markets and, of course, patisseries, as well as places I want to try, but this list was meant to be a kind of meta-list, a categorization of culinary musts that would save a visitor from that horrible moment when he's returned home and is recounting what a great vacation he's had, only to have someone say, "I can't believe you were in Paris and didn't have a macaron!"
It took me a while to pare the gustatory pleasures of Paris down to a top 10, no time at all to come up with a list of places to taste them, and then more time to pare down the places - there are so many places for great food in Paris. (To read my original article, go to Diversion Magazine.)
So here, to kick off the vacation season, is my list of must-try Paris foods. Please, please, if you've got others to add, don't keep them a secret; ditto if you think any of my suggestions are off base.
BAGUETTES: While the baguette just about symbolizes La Belle France (to say nothing of la belle vie), it's a completely Parisian creation, one recognized by its length - it should be about two-feet long (the better to hold under your arm?); its caramel-colored crust that should break into a million little pieces; and its soft innards sporting lots of odd-shaped air pockets. I know it's heretical, but my favorite baguette doesn't really conform to these rules - it comes from Eric Kayser (he's got shops all around town, but the mother house is at 8 rue Monge, Paris 5) and it's topped with lots of crunchy seeds. For a more classical loaf, there's Le Boulanger de Monge (123 rue Monge, Paris 5). And, even though the shop doesn't have a baguette, you can't leave Paris without going to Poilane (8 rue du Cherche Midi, Paris 6) and trying the big, heavy, dark brown, dense and delicious sourdough round. Poilane is the most famous bread shop in Paris and it deserves every bit of its celebrity.
CROISSANTS: Like a baguette, a croissant is a messy affair, and, like a macaron (see below), it inspires fierce loyalty among its appreciators. A cross between bread and pastry (they belong to a class of preparations called viennoisserie), croissants can be found in both boulangeries (bread shops) and patisseries (pastry shops). I'm partial to pastry-shop croissants (it's probably the extra butter), specifically the ones from Pierre Herme (62 rue Bonaparte, Paris 6), Laduree (16 rue Royale and other locations) and Gerard Mulot (76 rue de Seine, Paris 6), who also makes a terrific sour-cherry clafoutis, but that's another story.
MACARONS: Again, here's something that's known throughout France, but most treasured in Paris, where pastry chefs' reputations are made and ruined on the quality of their macarons. Macarons (it's the French spelling of macaroons) - a pair of light, puffy almond-meringue cookies sandwiching fillings like ganache, caramel and buttercream - have reached cult status in Paris and locals will crisscross the city to get their favorites or the mac of the moment. Moi, I just have to walk down the street to Pierre Herme (62 rue Bonaparte, Paris 6). I'm not alone in thinking that Herme makes the world's best macarons - for sure he makes the macs that are most copied around the world.
CHEESES: Since there is no way you're going to be able to taste all the cheeses of France (of which there are more than 365 - now there's an idea for a year-long blog), the way I see it, you might as well taste the best, which means you've got to go to a place where the cheesemonger is wildly fussy. For impeccable cheeses that are fussed over with skill, passion, precision and affection, head to Fromagerie Quatrehomme (62 rue de Sevres, Paris 7), where Mme. Quatrehomme is a Meilleur Ouvrier de France (best artisan of France) and does most of the final aging in her own caves. In addition to Quatrehomme, I often buy cheese at the shop that's closest to my apartment, Fromagerie 31 (31 rue de Seine, Paris 6) and I always buy cheese from Philippe Gregoire of Elevage du Corbier every Sunday at the organic market on the Boulevard Raspail.
ICE CREAM: I know ice cream isn't the first food that jumps to mind when you think of Paris, but it would be a true pity if you went all the way to Paris and missed a scoop from Berthillon (31 rue Saint-Louis-en-l'Ile, Paris 4). No one knows how Berthillon does it (and they're not telling), but they make ice cream with the deepest, truest flavors ever churned. Getting ice cream from the shop is a pleasure - when the shop is open: for reasons unfathomable, Berthillon closes in August, the peak of ice-cream season. Luckily, many shops sell Berthillon and they're so proud to do so that they post signs on their doors saying it's their scoop of choice.
PLATEAU FRUITS DE MER: Whenever I see a big metal platter with a mound of crushed ice and a pile of oysters, clams, shrimp, langoustines and other precious shellfish, I imagine that I'm in Paris in the 1920s with Hemingway, Fitzgerald and Picasso. I think part of the rason that I can indulge this culinary hallucination so easily is because my favorite place to enjoy this luxury - and is it ever a luxury (especially now with the dollar so weak) - is at Le Dome (108 boulevard du Montparnasse, Paris 14), a Montparnasse brasserie that was a favorite hang-out for the lights of the Lost Generation. But if you're not up for a whole plateau, have oysters and a glass of Sancerre either at Le Dome or at my favorite oyster bar, Regis Huitrerie (3 rue de Montfaucon, Paris 6).
CREPES: A classic Paris street food, crepes are traditionally spread with butter and sugar, slathered with Nutella or sprinkled iwth cheese, but the ones that star chef Yves Camdeborde makes at his creperie (9 carrefour de l'Odeon, Paris 6) are as hearty and original as the food he serves at his next-door bistro, Le Comptoir - they're definitely filling enough to have as a meal (and so chockablock with ingredients that eating them on the run is a challenge). For crepes you can sit down and eat (like the ones pictured at left), I go to Breizh Cafe, the Paris outpost of the famous creperie in Cancale. Here the lacy crepes are made with organic ingredients and the fillings can be plain or fancy, sweet or savory. There's also a terrific (and terrifcally long) cider list.
STEAK-FRITES: To my mind, the best version of the classic steak-frites dish is found at Bistro Paul-Bert (18 rue Paul-Bert, Paris 11), which is a good thing for me because the place is also one of my hands-down favorite bistros, and you can't beat the combination of having the iconic dish in a setting that's Parisian through and through. It also doesn't hurt that Bistro Paul-Bert has a remarkable wine list.
CROQUE MONSIEUR AND MADAME: A croque monsieur is essentially a grilled ham sandwich on white bread, topped with a creamy, cheesy sauce Mornay and run under the broiler; monsieur's madame gets an extra topping: a sunny-side-up egg. My favorite croques are not so traditional - they're open-faced, built on solid country bread and found at Le Mabillon (164 boulevard Saint-Germain, Paris 6), a cafe with a rock'n'roll attitude and good salads.
CHAMPAGNE: I know that Champagne isn't typically
Parisian, but Paris is the kind of city where you want to order une
coupe de Champagne on a whim. I think it's as much fun to have
Champagne in a busy cafe - I'd opt for the Cafe de Flore (172
boulevard Saint-Germain, Paris 6), where Simone de Beauvoir and
Jean-Paul Sartre once clinked glasses - as in a ritzy bar. And no bar
is ritzy than The Ritz Bar
(Hotel Ritz, 15 place Vendome, Paris 1), which is devoted entirely to
Champagne. Other cool bars where Champagne would be the perfect
splurge are The Bar at The Plaza Athenee (25 rue Montaigne, Paris 8) or the stylish lounge at l'Hotel (13 rue des Beaux Arts, Paris 6), the hotel where Oscar Wilde famously died above his means.
Categories: Markets & Boutiques , Paris , Patisseries, Boulangeries & Chocolate Shops
24 Comments
Hey Dorie,
Your timing with this post is eerie! I was going through your Paris Sweets book last night googling the various bakeries you mention between those covers to see what was new and was struck by the proliferation of macarons. (In fact, I made note of them to add to my trend tracking radar screen.) Would you say that these cookies are trending up or just holding steady as a historic fav?
I see them trending up on this side of the Atlantic but don't have enough background about the Paris bakery landscape to draw my own conclusion.
When it comes to crêpes also try the breton variant called "galette" which is prepared with buckwheat flour instead of plain wheat flour. The savory taste goes well with cheese, ham, mushrooms...
(I think the picture above even shows those ;) )
Dana, as incredible as it seems, given how long macarons have been so treasured in Paris, I think the answer is that they're "trending up".
If you're going to Paris, here are a few patisseries that weren't around when I wrote Paris Sweets, but that I'd definitely include if I were writing the book today:
Des Gateaux et du Pain - Claire Damon's patisserie
Pain du Sucre -- in the Marais
Ble Sucre -- near the Marche Aligre
Sadaharu Aoki -- near the Luxembourg Gardens
Evi, thanks for your comment -- you're right about buckwheat crepes -- called galettes when they're made of buckwheat -- they're delicious with savory fillings and yes, the crepes in the picture are buckwheat. Buckwheat is, as you suggested, used at most creperies for the savory fillings and white wheat flour for the sweet.
Great list! Thanks.
great post, Dorie,
Having lived 4 years in Paris, I agree with all the good points you make about the best culinary pleasures of Paris.
Best
david
Parisians drink Champagne?
I guess I have some catching up to do...
; )
What a great list, I wish I could hop on a plane right now! Thanks for sharing! Hopefully I can go back to Paris someday. It is an amazing city.
What a great list- it makes me ache to head back to Paris! I sure love your books- with your brioche recipe I can conjure up something close to a Pain Au Chocolat! Merci!
Dorie,
The perfect financier is the item (o.k., one of the items) I search for in Paris. Several years ago, I unwittingly purchased just one from a patisserie around the Rue de Bac. Of course, there was no info. on the bag and so every trip now includes time to do a bit of 'research'. I've also turned my nephews into financier addicts by bringing some home to be sampled. Several years ago, my nephew, Gardner, and I even baked a batch for his French class, using a recipe from Patricia Wells. We used both the rectangular tins from Dehillerin and small muffin tins as Patricia suggested. Great news! They were perfection either way. So, do you have a favorite spot for these gems? Jean
Thank you Dorie! My husband and I are taking our first trip to Paris this summer. I can't wait to try your suggestions!
The list is so perfect. When I first went to Pierre Herme to stand on line for the macarons I thought that was silly but there are no other.Just thinking about them and my first experience makes my mouth water. Your top ten places are incredible. Can't wait to go back to Paris and experience them all!
A bit of a duplication since you did mention croissants, but I had Pain Chocolat on Ile St. Louis to die for one day. A good memory
A follow up to my last comment-I'm transported! Thanks, my mouth is watering!
What a fun idea! I'd just like to add that the steak-frites at La Bourse ou la Vie in the 2nd arrondissement are spectacular.
Oooh, this is SO getting bookmarked for our September trip! Thank you, thank you!
i think i hit most of these (several more than once) in about 48 hours the last time i was in paris. that being said, only in paris can you eat duck at lunch without feeling guilty, so i think that goes on the list too. and meringues!
I am printing off this list right now!! I've never been to Paris, but I know we'll be going someday soon - and when we do, this handy little list will definitely make the trip!! Thanks for posting!
Is thereanything similar to the pancakes I SO adore in Holland? (Crepessound close ...)
Hi Dorie,
I just found your blog! It is wonderful! I saw a comment that you have a brioche recipe in one of your books. Which book--its not in either of the two I have. Would you point me in the right direction.
Thank you,
Elizabeth
I love that you mention Eric Kayser. When we were in Paris this summer, we stopped in at one of the Eric Kayser shops for tea and hot chocolate after a picnic in the Parc Monceau. The service was lovely, the hot chocolate was great, and they brought my daughter (then 11 months) a big plate of their sugared choux pastries and mini financiers all to herself. (She was quite pleased). We were sure it was going to be outrageously overpriced but it was so reasonable (in Parisian cafe terms). I felt remarkably lucky (and a little silly) when I realized that Kayser was also the baker behind one of my favorite shops here at home in L.A. -- Breadbar.
Dear Dorie,
My daughter ( her first trip) and I leave for Paris in 2 days and I have just gone through your blog. I know we will be checking out some of the sites you mentioned. Thanks for the lists! Everything sounds delicious.
Dear Dorie -
I've been baking from your book From Home To Yours for over a year and I have loved EACH and EVERY recipe. The brownies for Julia Child are life chaning. I don't know why it took me this long to check if you had a blog. Low and behold, you do, and it's chocked full of gems.
My husband and I are going to Paris in late May and I plan to visit your favorite patisseries. My husband's favorite thing in the world is pain au chocolat. Do you have a favorite place?
Thank you - Kim
I have two of your cookbooks and love using them.
Your list is brilliant. I guess because I couldn't agree more.
I had my first macaron from Gerard Mulot. I can remember the moment. I turned and walked back in the shop and got another...and another....
Since that time Ihave frequented the other two as well with equally sublime results.
I got here via Alexander Lobrano. It amazes me how much American agree with their favorite places to enjoy Paris.
I can't wait to try the steak/frites when we return to Paris in the fall.
Just returned from Paris last week (mid-April) and would like to share my (gustatory) experiences; many of the restaurants/shops visited were based on yours/David L's recs so I owe you/your readers:
favorites:
macarons/pastry shop: Gerard Mulot/Le Pain du Sucre
bread: Eric Kayser
chocolate: Pierre Marcolini
outdoor food market: Richard Lenoir, the bustle of Sunday shopping - vendor from
Savoie
interesting/arcane food stores: Izrael Spices and Detou
cheese: Barthlemy and outdoor market in Raspail
restaurants around 35 euros for 3 courses (here we go in descending order):
Intineraires (new w/imaginative takes on the classics; great)
La Ferrandaise (robust, flavorful home-style cooking)
Mon Vieil Ami (lovely food & professional air, and open for Sunday dinner!)
L'Affriole (creative, fresh-tasting)
Le Relais de Isle (delightful lunch fused with jazz on Ile de St Louis)
Chez Dumonet (neighborhood, best cassoulet ever managed to finish)
Regis Huitres (fun cocktail of oysters & Sancerre)
Cheapest, best wine store: Caves Bardou (Faubourg st. Denis)
Disasters/unfortunate;
L'Os a la Moelle (worst dinner anywhere resulting in food poisoning)
Bistrot Paul Bert (highly lauded in English guidebooks,rude management who seem to detest the Americans who find themselves there (my E15 change from the addition was kept by the arrogant patron)
L'Atlas (very tired Moroccan cooking; sad surroundings)
Dehillerin (steep prices for tourists- could pretty much buy anything there in NY for a lot less!)
Goumanyat (nothing special packaged spices at crazy prices)
Surprises
wonderful concerts of baroque & medieval music in small churches, string quartet playing in Sainte Chapelle as dusk turned into night
a post-Lent parade by costumed children down the streets of Montorgeuil
discovered a little 'hood regional place, Le Bistro Gourmand, on Depuis, near Temple, with the best tart tatin EVER
Serendipty: always, everday, unforgettable encounters with people & places
J'aime beaucoup PARIS!